...East Europe

May is the perfect time to travel around Euope. Between Winter making the last of its very reluctant exit and Summer gearing up for a blazing entrance, Spring struts about in all its resplendent glory.
Multihued flowers sprout and sway out of every fertile spot and lush trees in myriad shades of green pleasantly nod as you walk by. These bursts of color, further enhanced by the green, make for a beautiful sight, adding a spring to your step making walking such a pleasure.
May is also when you can enjoy multiple weather changes in a single day, with warm days and cool evenings and even the occasional chilly night. And the luxury of long, long days, as the sun sets no earlier than 9 pm.Be prepared for sudden showers though, as Rain is an unwanted bonus that makes its appearance, and often when you want it the least.

The countries behind the Iron Curtain have always held an element of mystery.To unearth some of it, in May 2007, I flew to Poland where the capital city of Warsaw was my first stop. I then crossed borders into neighboring Germany to visit yet another capital city, Berlin, which then made way for the fairy-tale like ambience of Prague in the Czech Republic. A revisit to Poland, to discover Krakow this time, was followed by the twin cities of Buda and Pest which form Budapest in Hungary and which also put a, very reluctant, full stop to an exciting month of travel and discoveries.

...Warsaw,Poland

Local Currency: Zloty

Exchange Ratio of Zloty to Indian Rupees: 14.56 (May ’07 approx rate)

Local Language: Polish. German is spoken too. English is neither spoken nor understood and it would be a smart decision to hire an interpreter to get around.

Time difference between Poland and Mumbai: 3 ½ hours (we are ahead) Add +1 when calculating Daylight Saving Time (DST) which starts from the end of March and lasts to the end of October.

What to buy: Vodka. Intricately Carved, surprisingly lightweight, wooden boxes. Silver artifacts and jewelry. E.Wedel,local Polish Chocolates.Beautifully crafted Amber jewelry. Be careful to check that you get the real stuff, as fakes are not only available everywhere, but look better than the real thing.Genuine shops give you a certificate of authenticity along with your purchase.

Best Time to go: April to June, when it is Spring and September to late October, during Autumn.The months from June to September are supposed to get awfully hot. A bitter Winter sets in from November and lasts till Mid-March.

Note: Wherever we went, we were repeatedly warned to be cautious against pick pockets. Though we faced no such untoward incident ourselves it is a good idea to be careful with your money and belongings when moving around.


TO BE CONTINUED...

...Istanbul, Turkey.

Local Currency: Lira. The Lira is also referred to as YTL.

Exchange Ratio: Lira to Indian Rupee: 31.01(Approx)

Local Language: Turkish is the official spoken language while Arabic is widely spoken too, among other languages.
English is neither spoken nor understood and it would be a smart decision to hire an interpreter to get around.

Travel Duration: I flew Turkish Airlines both ways, Mumbai-Istanbul-Mumbai, and the flight duration was 6 ½ hours on the way there and 5 ½ hours on the way back.

Time difference between Istanbul and Mumbai: 2 ½ hours (We are ahead) (When calculating Daylight Saving Time (DST) add +1. DST starts from the end of March and lasts to the end of October.)

What to buy: The very famous talisman ‘Evil Eye’, available in more forms than you can imagine! Carpets. Hazelnuts. Dried-fruit (especially the super-sized figs) Spices. Leather goods. Local Caviar. Apple tea and glasses. Local sweets. Raki, the local liquor.Turkish jewelry, which is uniquely exquisite and available in gold, silver and also inlaid with precious and semi precious stones.

Best Time to go: April to June, when it is Spring and September to late October, during Autumn.
The months from June to September are supposed to get awfully hot and rainy. A bitter Winter comes in from the end of October and lasts till Mid-March. The weather starts thawing only after that when springs starts setting in.
I traveled to Turkey in early May and it was perfect! The temperatures hovered between 12 – 16 Degrees Celsius with early mornings and late evenings being relatively cooler than the rest of the day. In the 4 days that I spent there, I enjoyed a diversity of climates that ranged from sharp winds to bright sunshine, sudden rain showers and cold bordering from chilly to bitter.

Note: Though Istanbul is one of the most liberated cities I have traveled to, do keep in mind to dress a tad conservatively when you visit the mosques or other religious places. Do carry a stole with you as some religious places require women to cover their head before they enter and while you are inside. Though most of them provide scarves if you aren’t carrying one, it is better to carry your own for reasons of hygiene :)

Tip: Do keep lots of small change handy as you will need it everywhere. From getting a trolley at the airport to using the public toilets in the city.

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I saw...
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It is difficult to encapsulate Istanbul in words, because even all the flattering adjectives the English Language has taught you pale in comparison when you get down describing the only city in the world that straddles two continents, Europe and Asia. When Istanbul is not amazing you, it is awing you, around every corner you turn. That it also delights you is a given. Describing Istanbul as charmingly, serendipitous comes closest to doing full justice to this wondrous city.

The surprises begin from the moment I start driving into the city from Attaturk International Airport and glimpse happily dancing Tulips, lining the way on one side while the Marmara Sea lines the other side. Tulips? In Turkey? I rub my eyes in disbelief. Did I see right?

At my question, my smiling Guide enlightened me that Tulips first originated in Turkey. The bulbs were gifted to the King of Netherlands when he visited Turkey and he went back, got them planted, multiplied and now the whole world thinks of Holland as Tulip country. I take in this information, even as I can’t seem to take my eyes off the gorgeous flowers in all the colors you can imagine (even black!) sprouting out of every bit of fertile soil, thanks to Springtime. As we move closer into the city, the flowers multiply.

As does my joy!

Because right in front of me I spot the 4 minarets of the splendid Suleymaniye Mosque:

majestically rising into the sky and dominating the skyline of Istanbul. An awe-inspiring sight that had the same effect on me no matter how many times a day I saw it as I moved around Istanbul for the next few days.
Although fewer tourists make it here than to the more famous Blue Mosque, Sulemaniye is even grander and more peaceful, and one of the finest creations by Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. The huge high dome and pencil-slim minarets from each corner of the courtyard are an exquisite example of symmetry and elegance. Built in the 1550s, the site also contains the tombs of Sinan, Sultans Suleyman II and Ahmet II all set around a tranquil courtyard.

The Blue Mosque:

was built during the reign of Sultan Ahmet (1603-1617), as Islam’s answer to Haghia Sophia and is distinguishable from the Sulemaniye by its 6 minarets. The Blue Iznik tiles dominating the interior along with the blue light shining through more than 250 stained glass windows give it its name. The interior is stunning and the vast central dome is designed to lift all eyes heavenward. The unique, circular disc of the Ottoman chandelier

that uses thousands of candles to be lit up fully, is eye level with you and softly lights up the cool interiors. The atmosphere inside fills you with an immense sense of peace and happiness and you bow down to thank God for the opportunity to be here.

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I Shopped At...
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Grand Bazaar:



Holds the distinction of being the oldest and the largest covered market in the world. The labyrinth of shops snaking through more than 58 streets and 5,000 shops sell everything from souvenirs to clothes to leather goods to hookahs to jewelry. It can be accessed through 2 gates and has between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. More than a day is needed to absorb the flavor and savor the shops of this delightfully alive market.
Please note: It is really easy to get lost here, so keep track of the route and time while here. And yes, beware of pickpockets.

Egyptian Spice Market:

The second largest covered shopping complex after the Grand Bazaar. It is so named because various spices from the Orient were offered here in the past, and the alternative name, 'Egyptian Bazaar', because the spices came via Egypt.
As the name, very obviously, implies this is where you buy your spices, nuts and other culinary delights and edibles from, namely local Turkish sweets like the ‘Turkish Delight’ and ‘Baklava’ to name two.
The shops vacuum-pack all your edible purchases so you don’t have to worry about how you’ll carry them home. And although you'll be tempted to start buying things the moment you walk in the door, note that the prices get lower and lower the farther you get into the building. And since you can find the same things for sale all over the place, you don't have to worry about missing your chance if you don't make a purchase at the first place you see.

Besides edibles this market also stocks some great unusual Evil Eye Talismans that I didn’t spot anywhere else in Istanbul.

Cevahir Mall:

If old bazaars are not what interest you, then drop in to the spanking new largest Mall in Europe and the second largest Mall in the world, the magnificent Cevahir Mall. This behemoth of a Mall has a total gross area of 620,000 m² and is spread over six floors and cost $250 million to build. There are 280 shops, some of which are the first in Turkey to sell certain international brands; 34 fast food restaurants and 14 exclusive restaurants in the shopping centre. Under its roof, there is a big stage for shows and other events, 12 cinemas including an IMAX 3D cinema. It has also a cinema for children, several other entertainment facilities, and a bowling hall. A roller coaster spans the interior of the shopping centre. The building's 2,500-m-glass roof carries the biggest clock in the world. A must visit.

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I Munched and Sipped...
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Istanbul is foodie-heaven! You can't go there and return without trying;
Raki:

Raki is the very popular Turkish liquor made from raisins and fennel seeds *yes, our very own saunf* This transparent drink turns a milky white when water is added to it in the proportion of half:half. The strong whiff of fennel hits you first and then the powerful punch of the first sip knocks you back! Certainly not for the faint-hearted, or teetotalers like me. But regular drinkers assured me that it is an acquired taste that soon becomes addictive.

Apple Tea:

All over Istanbul, rushing waiters carrying trays with at least a dozen, if not more, petite glasses of Apple tea are a common sight. Apple tea tastes like hot apple juice and is served in adorable tulip shaped glasses with 2 blocks of sugar on the side. This addictive and refreshing drink is a must-try when in Istanbul. Some stores not only serve it to you the moment you enter, but also insist that you finish it, irrespective of whether you have made a purchase or not.

Baklava:

A rich, sweet, multi-layered, flaky pastry that just melts in the mouth and takes you straight to heaven. The pastry is made of almost 30 layers of dough and filled with chopped nuts, mostly pistachios or walnuts, and sweetened with sugar or honey syrup. Usually served with Turkish Coffee at the end of a meal.

Turkish Delight:

or 'Lokum' as the locals refer to it as is a soft, glutinous candy square in assorted flavors dusted with powdered sugar or desiccated coconut. The ones filled with pistachios, hazelnuts, walnuts are not only the most popular but the yummiest too. Turkish Delight is extremely popular and a great gift to carry back home.

Koz Helva/ Kos Helva: A flaky sweet confection mostly made of sugar, glucose and honey. Egg white, or marshmallow root are added in some recipes, to create a distinctive texture. Other ingredients and flavorings such as pistachio nuts, hazel nuts, walnuts, cocoa powder, or chocolate are normally added to the basic sugar base.The result is a halva with a light consistency, similar to cotton candy.

Flower Honey:

Now, I am no fan of Honey. But when I spotted a fresh wedge of beehive, with rich golden honey oozing out of it on my breakfast table on my first morning in Istanbul, I had to try it! One tentative lick and I was a convert! Not only does the locally – produced flower-honey look different, but it tastes vastly different too. Can be eaten with anything, or just on its own. It leaves a gummy residue behind after you are done eating it, and you have to spit that out. Another must try.

Turkish Ice cream:


or Dondurma as it is referred to as locally: Two features distinguish Turkish ice cream: texture and resistance to melting. Dondurma has a texture of chewing gum, very different compared to any other commercially produced ice cream; the unusual texture is produced by the use of local thickening agents, together with other flavorings. And yes, it just refuses to melt!
Turkish Ice Cream is sold from carts or tiny shops where brightly dressed young men churn the mixture repeatedly with long-handled paddles to keep it workable, The ice cream is presented to you with a flourish after a ritual of much banter and fun.

And a very special mention to…

Kumpir:

the craziest baked potato I have ever eaten! I tried it on a freezing cold visit to Ortakoy, which is a suburb just below the Bosphorus Bridge, on the European side, very similar to our Mumbai Chowpatty area.

A Kumpir Counter:
Giant potatoes are pulled from steaming trays, their insides filled with butter and cream and then whipped together. Then toppings, of choice, are piled on.Options include couscous, carrots, beets, hot dogs, olives, pickles, potato salad, mayonnaise, corn, assorted sauces and godknowswhatnot! You choose the topping and additions of your choice and within minutes you have a steaming Kumpir in your hands!
We chose mayonnaise, steamed corn and a red sauce recommended by the shop owner and within minutes we were feasting on a delectable steaming potato while a cold wind danced around us.

Besides these, street vendors are everywhere. Vendors hawked freshly-Roasted Chestnuts and Corn on the cob near the New Mosque.
Simit:

A bread that looks like a cross between a pretzel and a bagel and dusted with sesame seeds is available on little carts on every street corner. A Simit with a glass of Apple Tea is the staple local diet.
I also had the biggest, juiciest strawberries and cherries off a fruit cart.
The Wraps, very similar to falafel, are also a must-try.

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Must-do-if-you-can...
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Bosphorus River Cruise:
Bosporus is the name of the strait which lies between Europe and Asia. We took the something-you-must-do-when-in-Istanbul, Bosporus Cruise on the "The mesmerizing aqua waters of the Bosphorus River in Istanbul." Soak in the beautiful sights and the amazing Istanbul skyline, replete with spires of the 2000+ Mosques piercing the bright blue sky as you cross over from to Asian side of Istanbul to the European side.
There are municipal ferries which operate daily three times a day. The ferry is a traditional one, which has seats inside and outside. The one-way cruise last for an hour and a half while the two-way (full cruise) lasts for three hours. Aboard the ferry, you have noisy hawkers peddling tea/coffee/cold drinks/juice, assorted snacks, ice-cream and yogurts.

...Auschwitz and Birkenau.Poland : A Photo-Journey

On a gloomy, grey afternoon in May, I traveled 50 kms outside Krakow, Poland to visit Auschwitz and Birkeneau, or Auschwiz-2 as it is also referred as, which are 2 of the surviving camps of the 3 that the Nazis set up to eliminate the Jews and other lower races.

Auschwitz was spread over 92 acres of land and once housed around 20, 000 prisoners and was the largest of the Nazi concentration camps.
The complex consisted of three main camps: Auschwitz I, the administrative center; Auschwitz II (Birkenau), an extermination camp or Vernichtungslager; and Auschwitz III (Monowitz), a work camp.

Up to 2.5 million people died at Auschwitz. The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum revised this figure in 1990, and new calculations now place the figure at 1.1–1.6 million, about 90 percent of them Jews from almost every country in Europe. Most of the dead were killed in gas chambers using Zyklon-B; other deaths were caused by systematic starvation, forced labor, lack of disease control, individual executions, and so-called medical experiments.


The sign over the entrance gate at Auschwitz reads “Arbeit Macht Frei” which ironically means “Work Brings You Freedom”.
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As I walked into the former camp, now a popular tourist attraction, my mood began matching the weather. The austere, red-bricked buildings and the forlorn foliage seemed like they were still tinged with the grief this place had once witnessed.


Though an extremely well-maintained property now, Auschwitz is still an uncomfortable experience. The somber silence that hangs heavy over it, like an invisible fog, makes it even more so. Instructions frequently repeated throughout the former camp and from the guides forbid tourists from talking aloud which I didn’t think were necessary as the solemn atmosphere of the former camp somehow manages to choke back any words that anyone may have…


Because Auschwitz and Birkenau were where unsuspecting Jews and other ‘lower’ races were brought to be killed.




During and after my trip to Auschwitz,I often wondered why Hitler hated the Jews and other races so ferociously. And somehow, just the fact that he wanted all ‘lower races’ to be eliminated and the Aryans to rule the world seems like a rather flimsy excuse.

Jews, and other lower races, from 13 countries around the world, some as far as Oslo, were brought to Auschwitz with the promise of a better life. They were told they were going to a new place of settlement which was called ' Canada.' Why ‘Canada? Because in Poland it was - and is still - used as an expression used when viewing, for example, a valuable and fine gift. The expression comes from the time when Polish emigrants were sending gifts home from ‘Canada’

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The Original Train Tickets...

...issused to the people being brought to Auschwitz

And this is how...

....they were killed.


After they were killed, each person was divested of their precious personal belongings like jewelry. Even people with gold teeth weren’t spared and the teeth were pulled out.
Women with long hair had their hair cut off, as close to the scalp as possible, and all the hair collected was used to manufacture cloth!

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The Original Cans of Cyclone B



or Zyklon B as it is also known as.
Zyklon B was originally developed as a pesticide but later used by Nazi Germany to kill over one million people in the gas chambers of Auschwitz.



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Though Auschwitz did house some genuine prisoners too, who were completely unaware of the real goings-on, thanks to being confined in cells with boarded up windows, most of the other 'prisoners' were hapless Jews and other races.
Most of the dead were killed in gas chambers using Zyklon-B/Cyclone-B. Other deaths were caused by systematic starvation, forced labor, lack of disease control, individual executions, and so-called medical experiments.

The Wall...



This is 'The Wall' where the starved, bound, gagged and naked Jews were shot dead. They were shaved clean from head to toe the previous night and divested of each item of clothing the next morning. A perfunctory ‘bath’ that consisted of a tumbler or two of water being thrown on them, and they were ready for the mindless execution. The were brought to The Wall and made to stand facing it, with their hands tied behind their backs, and shot repeatedly until they collapsed. Their death certificates citied the reason of death as a ‘Heart Attack.’

In the 2 photographs below, notice the buildings flanking The Wall, that housed actual prisoners. Note the windows which were boarded up so that the real prisoners could not see the injustice being committed against the hapless Jews and other races.




Though,the above is also the building that doubled up as the ‘administrative office’ where it was decided who would die and when. The dead-bodies and ‘death certificates’ were also discharged from here.
Shooting the Jews happened in the initial days of setting up Auschwitz, till the Nazi’s realized that gassing thousands together would consume less time than shooting a few Jews at a time.

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Warning Signs...




...and Barbed Wire everywhere...



In case the warning signs didn’t act as a deterrent, there were electric, barbed wire fences and guards posted at the end of each row of buildings.

Barbed Wire seemed to be the favored the décor of the camp.Around the buildings, in between them, these cruel looking fences were everywhere, making, even the thought of, escape impossible.
Not that escape was a probability on the mind of the starved, sleep-deprived and fatigued Jews who were made to work for more than 12 hours a day.





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The Living Quarters: Birkeneau (Auschwitz-2)


Birkenau or Auschwitz-2 as it is also known as was the largest killing center in the entire Nazi universe; the very heart of their system. Birkenau, which was 30 times larger than Auschwitz, was spread over 398 acres and housed 100,000 prisoners. The main camp, Auschwitz I was on the outskirts of the Polish city Oswiecim. Birkenau was in a suburb named Zasole.

The Entrance

The Polish government has maintained Birkeneau or Auschwitz-2 as it is also known as, as a memorial for all those who perished there during World War II. Unlike the main camp at Auschwitz, Birkenau is not a museum, research archive, or publishing house. It is preserved more or less in the state it was found at liberation in January 1945.
However, only a few of the wooden barracks remain and are now being restored. The brick barracks and other structures in the women's camp still stand. All four Birkenau crematoria were dynamited by the retreating SS, however their ruins can still be seen.

The Views of The Camp






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This is where the Train...

..carrying the Jews came right into Birkenau, directly from the local railway station.

The Tracks..

Within minutes of alighting from the train, the selection process for the people on the 'must-be-gassed-immediately' list began.
Women, especially pregnant women, and children were the first to be sent to the gas chambers and within hours of entering Birkenau they were dead.
Strong and well-built men were spared a visit to the chambers as they would be used around the camp for manual labor. They were made to work for more than 15 hours a day without a break.

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The Sleeping Area...

...for the prisoners. Ironical, because the bone-weary, made to work for 12-15 hours, prisoners were just allowed a couple of hours of sleep every day.

The Beds...

Considering that 8-10 people were cramped on EACH tiny bed,in this poorly ventilated room, wonder how much sleep they really got?

The Toilets...

Almost all the prisoners suffered from diarrhea, which worsened and caused infections, both internal and external due to the lack of toilet facilities. Many prisoners died because of the infections.

The Communal Toilets...

...that prisoners were ‘allowed’ to use once a day. Each morning at around 4 am, regardless of the weather, the prisoners were stripped naked and taken to the toilets and allowed to use them, communally, for 3-5 minutes, irrespective of the time they needed them.
To clean them up, they were then made to stand with their faces against the wall *notice the raised platform on the side* and hosed down with a powerful jet of water. After this they proceeded for ‘breakfast’, usually a thin gruel, with some stale bread if the officers were felling particularly kind, and then taken to the fields to work for 12-15 hours at a stretch, without a break.

There were 7000 survivors, most of them children, when the Russian Army finally liberated Auschwitz on the 27th of January 1945.

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